Where To Ride
WORDS BY: Nat Bromhead
Sydney and some of Australia’s best gravel riding options might seem a world apart, but just over an hour north of the densely urbanised Harbour City is an elaborate network of impressive off-road routes. One of modern Australia’s first regional roads is, quite ironically, the go-to favourite for Sydney-based gravel riders in the know. Eerily quiet during the week, come Saturday and Sunday – at just about any time of year – you’ll come across keen gravel riders. It’s a special place. The gravel north of Wisemans doesn’t just lead you into the pristine Australian bush, it takes you back in time. Starting at Wisemans Ferry, a short river crossing on the car ferry sets the tone. The ferry is free, and it transports you to a slower, simpler time. Turning left after leaving the ferry, riders are faced with a tough choice: continue along Settlers Road to St Albans, or turn right and start the climb to the historic Devines Hill – a winding gravel ascent carved into the escarpment. This marks the start of a well-preserved stretch of the Great Northern Road, a car-free convict route laden with gravel goodness. Wisemans Ferry To St Albans For this piece, we’ll stick to the more popular option and stay on Settlers Road to St Albans. Lapping up the hard-packed dirt and smooth gravel, the road is hemmed in by sandstone cliffs and ancient bushland. This historic route is more than a gateway to the north – it’s a gravel rider’s goldmine. Regularly graded for the benefit of the handful of people who call St Albans home, it’s just under 20km from Wisemans to the historic hotel – the Settlers Arms Inn, built in 1836. The centrepiece of the quaint town, the pub is a mandatory stop, either for a late morning coffee (noting it doesn’t open too early) or for lunch and a refreshing beer and burger on the way back. Decisions Decisions From St Albans, you have two options. The easier one is to cross the McDonald River for a bitumen loop back to Wisemans (using another free ferry at the end of the road). This makes for a 40km loop and is a fantastic ride in itself. But most riders are here for the gravel, and from St Albans the Great Northern Road offers a remarkable mix of history and nature. Originally hewn by convict labour in the 1800s to link Sydney with the Hunter Valley, this 43km UNESCO World Heritage-listed section rolls through towering forest, over dry creek beds, and alongside moss-covered retaining walls laid by hand two centuries ago. Small hobby farms give way to the wide and fertile McDonald Valley. This feels like frontier country – so close to Sydney’s 5.5 million people, yet so far away. You pass through St Albans Common, in use since 1824 when Governor Brisbane set aside 2,000 acres of land for local landowners. And attention ‘leaners’ (you know who you are) – the row of unique letterboxes here is a mandatory photo stop. Into ‘The Forgotten Valley’ Rolling again, the smooth gravel road snakes alongside waterholes that link sections of the McDonald River, and further north into the region locals refer to as ‘the Forgotten Valley’. The road steadily climbs as it guides you through true wilderness country. There are numerous creek crossings, you pass enormous carved-out roadside caves, ride through lush sections of temperate rainforest, and the gravel seems to keep going forever. Eventually, Wollombi Road climbs out of the valley and merges with the Great North Road. Continuing another six or so kilometres and you’ll come to the intersection of George Downes Drive and the Great North Road. From here you are faced with a tough decision – one that depends on how you’ve planned your day or weekend. Turn around for the faster, slightly downhill 57km ride back to St Albans and Wisemans, or turn left and continue the adventure to dreamy destinations including Laguna, Wollombi, and the glorious gravel of the Hunter Valley. What To Take & Final Comments Make sure you carry spares plus ample water and nutrition. A handlebar or frame bag is a must – if you have the space, carry more water, food, and tools than you think you’ll need. A well-maintained bike is essential, as is a sense of adventure. Pay particular attention to your tubeless setup and carry a spare tube (even if you are running tubeless). Also, there’s very patchy phone reception around St Albans (depending upon your network) but beyond that, there are few signs and even less people. Some of New South Wales’ most rewarding riding, the area north of Wisemans Ferry offers a fascinating and memorable blend of dirt roads, deep history, and peaceful solitude … you’ll love it.
Gravel Gold North of Wisemans Ferry
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