The Northern Rivers Rail Trail

WORDS BY: Nat Bromhead

The Northern Rivers Rail Trail

Nestled in the lush, subtropical landscapes of northern New South Wales, the Northern Rivers Rail Trail (NRRT) is fast becoming one of Australia’s must-ride cycling routes.

Spanning four local government areas, Tweed, Byron, Richmond Valley, and Lismore, the trail is a joint venture that has been both exciting and frustrating for those eager to ride its full length.

The backstory of this relatively new trail, which opened in late 2023 and will eventually stretch 131 km, is one of perseverance, vision and ongoing cooperation between those four LGA’s.

It all began over 140 years ago when, in the 1880s, a railway line connecting Lismore to Murwillumbah was first proposed.

Designed to facilitate agricultural exports previously delayed by unpredictable sea transport across the Tweed River bar, the line evolved into a freight and passenger service, ultimately linking Murwillumbah with Sydney.

Upgrades to the Pacific Highway and evolving transport habits contributed to the decline of rail travel, particularly with the completion of a dual carriageway from Sydney to Brisbane.

The 100-year-old rail corridor was decommissioned in 2004 and lay dormant for nearly 20 years before reopening in 2023 as a recreational trail for cyclists and walkers.

A Trail Revived

The Tweed section covers 24 km from Murwillumbah to Crabbes Creek, a truly memorable ride with numerous stop-off points, historical signage, cafés, shops, and attractions. Highlights include lush green valleys, gently undulating hills, crystal-clear streams, timber bridges, and views of Mount Warning. The sub-tropical climate makes the trail rideable year-round, though autumn and spring offer the most comfortable conditions.

Today, visiting Murwillumbah feels like pedaling back in time – the water tank still stands, and the turntable remains in surprisingly good shape. The once-bustling waiting rooms have now come full circle, repurposed as a thriving bike rental outlet, cafe and tourist information centre.

On my first visit, the Murwillumbah station was alive with riders of all ages and abilities. Kids on tiny BMXs tagging along with parents, a tour group on e-bikes, a young couple on flat-bar roadies, and middle-aged enthusiasts ticking another rail trail off their list. I was there with my uncle, a youthful 70-something Murwillumbah local who rides the trail twice a week with mates.

“I don’t know if it does us any good,” joked Uncle Des. “It’s all about riding to Burringbar for coffee and cakes at Teakwood … but it’s a lot of fun.” 

I beg to differ on the “not doing us any good” part. Given that he rides 10 hilly kilometres from his hinterland home to the start of the trail, then 50 km return, it’s a solid ride.

Highlights and Hidden Gems

Wildlife encounters are common – curious wallabies pathside, kingfishers darting between trees, and the occasional koala high in the eucalyptus canopy. Then there are the ever-present Bellbirds and whipbirds that provide a natural backing track for the journey.

A key highlight is the Burringbar Range Tunnel, a 524-metre-long former railway tunnel that offers a thrilling and refreshingly cool experience. This dark, echoing passage is a favourite among riders and walkers alike, adding a sense of adventure to the trip. Pro tip: Bring a charged light for your bike!

The trail also connects to vibrant towns and villages, including Mooball, home to Uncle Des’s longtime bike mechanic and mate, Jeff Harris. A former competitive rider and bike shop owner of 25 years, Harris relocated his well-established business to Mooball, setting up shop in the town’s former general store. Running a busy bike hire service, Harris is a passionate advocate for the NRRT, seeing it as a long-term tourism drawcard for the region.

Leaving the bike shop, we rolled on, passing through another tunnel and engaging in some friendly gravel-bike competition. But all good things come to an end, and we came to an abrupt halt in a shady gully past the remnants of Crabbes Creek Station.

Uncle Des and I had arrived at the temporary end of the line. We dismounted to survey the overgrown rail corridor ahead – rotting sleepers, heavy railway iron, and strangling lantana. Standing there, it was clear just how much effort goes into transforming an abandoned railway line into a rail trail.

Farewell, but Not Goodbye

That trip was in late 2024, and over the summer, I watched my social feeds fill with news, photos, and videos of the freshly opened third stage of the trail. Skipping the yet-to-be-funded Byron section – the ‘missing link’ – the Lismore to Bentley stretch opened in December. Immediately popular, I knew I’d be back soon.

By early February, with the heat easing, conditions were perfect for both a first ride of the new section and a return trip to Stage 1 with Uncle Des.

Thick mist enveloped Lismore and surrounds that sleepy Saturday morning. Fortunately, I later realised, the low level moisture was doing a wonderful job of insulating the freshly finished rail trail from the increasing heat of the day.

I was aboard a Chapter 2 Kaha, a performance gravel bike fitted with Black Inc carbon wheels and 40mm ‘Thundero’ gravel tyres from Tufo. The bike, wheel and tyre combination was ideally suited for this first-class 25km length of pristine rail trail infrastructure.

“If Byron Shire sort itself out and speeds up work on ‘the missing link’, I thought while thundering along the trail, ‘this will be right up there as one of Australia’s greatest rail trail experiences.”

Spanning two Local Government Areas and connecting the regional hubs of Lismore with Casino, this section is quintessential rail trail. The facilities are fresh, new, well planned, perfectly placed and in keeping with the beauty of the rural region. The Bentley Road car park, bathroom facilities, water tanks and slow point where the trail cuts across a busy regional road, are sights to behold.

The Fast Spin To Casino

From here on, the trail changes to white gravel and is reminiscent of Strade Bianchi, the white roads of Tuscanny, as the trail traverses undulating countryside that’s reminiscent of rural France. The trail takes visitors up a challenging climb to bypass Naughtons Pass – an old abandoned tunnel that houses a colony of rare bats – before rewarding riders with a blacktop bitumen descent toward the final ‘white road’ sector into Casino. 

The trail comes to a finish at Casino’s old railway station, around a kilometre from the centre of town. Thirsty and hungry, but also feeling an immediate increase in heat once I’d come to a halt, a quick breakfast stop was in order. After a few minutes’ ride into town, the first cafe I saw happened to be one of the standouts. After a top-quality coffee and scrumptious bacon and egg roll at the Walker Street Cafe, it was back on the bike for the return run to Lismore. 

It’s funny how any return ride always seems so much quicker, but despite the building heat and the fact that the fog had quickly burnt off, the undulating 25 km back was a blast. That said, the steep climb back up Naughton’s Gap was a challenge with the rapidly rising temperature, but the view from the top – and a brief break in the perfectly placed rest area – made the climb a highlight of the overall experience. 

Build It And They Will Come

Another highlight of that Saturday morning Lismore to Casino ride was the sheer number of riders out on the trail. From keen young kids to couples on e-bikes and flat-barred roadies, to a couple of hard-core gravel enthusiasts, to mountain bikers, and riders from all persuasions, young and old, it sure was a social and popular place to be.